View Full Version : park problem
April 01, 2002, 21:56
I just tried to park my barrel. The gas block and f/s came out fine. The finish on the barrel rubbs off. Everything was degreased properly and the barrel is an imbel. Suggestions??? Thanks
April 01, 2002, 22:20
Did you Sand blast the paint off of the Imbel barrel frist before parking.
April 01, 2002, 22:29
Yes the barrel gas block and f/s were completely degreased blasted degeased and then parked.
April 01, 2002, 22:31
RE-blast the barrel, spray with Simple Green or 409, rinse in clean water, imediately dip in park tank and make sure your solution temp. is at least 180f-195f..before dipping your barrel.
Use distilled/purified water in your park solution..
April 01, 2002, 22:38
Could the barrel be a different material than the gas block and flash hider. Both were attatched to barrel when it was parked and they came out fine and that was my second attempt.
April 01, 2002, 23:25
Originally posted by Rich@CGW:
<STRONG>RE-blast the barrel, spray with Simple Green or 409, rinse in clean water, imediately dip in park tank and make sure your solution temp. is at least 180f-195f..before dipping your barrel.
Use distilled/purified water in your park solution..</STRONG>
Hey Rich, would that be the reason my solution turned yellow and doesn't work for $hit anymore. I used good old country well water, hard as a rock!!!!!!!
Dan at VOW
April 01, 2002, 23:27
What are you using for a degreasing agent? How did you season your park solution? Temperature can make a big difference in how your finish comes out. Main thing is having seasoned solution, CLEAN, sand blasted (or aluminum oxide, glass beaded) parts. Another thing I have seen is someone using a compressor that was a little worn out, that was actually oiling the parts as they blew them off with air. HTH, Dan.
April 02, 2002, 00:00
The park solution varried between 180 and 185. I was using simple green and acitone to degrease, before and after I blasted. The barrel park rubbed off but all of the other parts of the gun turned out fine. The lower even came out nice.
April 02, 2002, 00:59
If you are using the Brownell`s solution, they mention that it is OK to use ordinary tap water.. But tap water tends to have alot of minerals and other water treatment chemicals that can depleat your solution and make it less reactive. Especialy if it has a high iron content.I prefer the high concentrated solutions and distilled water mix 16oz.-3 1/2 gal. And the closer to 200f the better. It realy opens up the pores and lets the park penetrate.
The Gold color is not a bad thing..It is the sign of a good aged solution as Dan@VOW points out,it is very important and will generaly give a darker and more uniform color. A suggestion, is to keep replentishing your old gold solution with a gallon or two of fresh mixed park solution. In your case, I would drain off 50% old and add 50% new.. After about two park sessions you should have super good results and will never have to pre age the solution again.
The barrel is a big hunk of metal compared to the rest of the parts and if dipped cold, it could drop the temp.. But it looks like your operating temp is good enough.. So that leaves the acitone treatment after blasting. I would skip it and just use the Simple Green and clean water rinse. The only time i have encountered your problem, is when i tried to cheat and dipped my parts when the tank was not hot enough..Are you useing a good temp guage?
April 02, 2002, 02:20
Had a similar problem with a Ruger MK1. The barrel turned out nice and bkack and the park rubbed off the reciever. Parked it twice, same thing happened. Have done 12 + FALs and quite a bit of other stuff. Finally re did the Mk1 in zink, it seemed to take ok.
The same thing has happened to me on some 1911 parts. I have been told and do believe that the solution is to not spray the parts with neutralizer/WD40 after the park. Just dip them in water with baking soda to neutralize then let air dry or blow dry. Hope this helps............
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