homegrown blue bluing recipe formula

[G-TOWN BILL]

I have an East German AK folding stock that needs to be blued. Everybody in my area has quit because of EPA. Does gunplumber do it? Everybody seems to like him. If so give me his email address and I'll send it to him. Or let me know who does.
Bill

[ August 21, 2001: Message edited by: gary.jeter ]

[usmc326]

Originally posted by G-TOWN BILL:
I have an East German AK folding stock that needs to be blued. Everybody in my area has quit because of EPA. Does gunplumber do it? Everybody seems to like him. If so give me his email address and I'll send it to him. Or let me know who does.
Bill

Try www.gunthings.com (http://www.gunthings.com) they carry FAL stuff, but also do refinishing. I'd guess
you want the matte, not polished, blue.
You might consider having it parkerized
black, as it'll last longer.

[Keith Buckner]

My experience has found the BEST overall finish to be Stealth Coat (http://www.stealth-coat.com).

I've had just about every finish out there and the most durable I've seen so far is this stuff. It permeates the metal, it's not just a topical finish.

I just sent them another FAL just this week.
Turnaround time is around two weeks.

[This message has been edited by Keith Buckner (edited November 28, 2000).]

[FALPhil]

This is my favorite blueing recipe. I got it from Blair Emory, and it has served me well.

1) The mix ratio is 5 lb lye (sodium hydroxide) to 2 1/2 lb ammonium nitrate (fertilizer), to 1 gallon water.

2) Grocery store lye and garden store fertilizer (33% with stuff, but that's what most all of it is) are good enough.. Make sure to not use tap water. Buy bottled distilled water.

3) Mix out doors as lots (and I mean LOTS) of ammonia gas is produced and will rot your lungs out if you sniff it. Wear goggles as this stuff foams and bubbles like mad. Very violent exothermic reaction. Mix in a black iron pail (not galvanized). Once mixed and operating the bath, there is no off gassing, but the vapors are corrosive so don't do it in your gun room or machine shop. Use plenty of ventilation.

4) Bath operates at 285 to 295 degree F. If you don't have a thermometer, heat until a sample part will just sizzle cold water. Takes 15 to 45 min. depending on the steel and how dense a film you want.

5) After you are done, take parts out, rinse in clean water, dry and oil. You are ready to go. If you don't like the depth of color after its dry,(but before you oil it) just put it back in the bath an cook it some more.

6) Bath will do 10 to 15 jobs before you have to add about 1 lb lye to a 5 gal bath to make up for boil off. Add water as required to keep the concentrations correct, but this does not seem critical.

7) You MUST add enough water at bath cool down, to more than make up for boil off or it will solidify and you can't re-melt easy. If you add too much, I will just boil off next time.

8) Make sure the parts are clean. Any oil will ruin the bath and job. Boil parts in TSP, Oakite or such first.

9) Store in glass or plastic jugs between use, if it crystalizes , it is shot.

10) You do not have to plug the bore as the magnitite film is harder than the steel and, if anything, should improve it. Possibly a little chemical milling too.


------------------
..Phil
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[W.E.G.]

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