View Full Version : What finish to use on IW stock?

March 27, 2002, 18:19
I am not having any luck finding the finish Ironwood recommends, so I am asking you guys, what finish did you use on your unfinished stocks? And feel free to include pics so we can all see how they turned out. I am looking for a more "service rifle" look though, so please help me out.

March 27, 2002, 19:40
Uhhh, do they sell that in a can? ;)

Thanks for the idea, but I'm looking for a simpler solution. Anyone?

March 27, 2002, 20:09
Simple... Straight Behr Tung oil. Let the character of the wood come through. I'll see if I can get some pics up.

March 27, 2002, 21:01
Try Dan/VOW. He has a "military" rub-on finish that works great! Gives a nice matte finish, and is weatherproof.

I put two coats of Boiled Linseed oil on my Ironwoods and finished with Dan's product. I love it!




March 27, 2002, 21:28
These are Dan at VOW seconds. No stain, six or seven coats, 0000 steel wool in between. Depending on temp, had to let the Tung dry for a few days.
edit: here is another

[ March 27, 2002: Message edited by: 1006587 ]

[ March 27, 2002: Message edited by: 1006587 ]

March 27, 2002, 22:42
anyone have the link to Dan/VOW ?

Dan at VOW
March 27, 2002, 22:59
I'm here, or you can click on the banner ad for VOW. I haven't been on here as much lately, way too many projects going on. New product will be out in the next 10 days, followed by 3 more in the next 30-60 days.

I have bottles of my fast military finish ready to go. Instructions for use are on the new web site at Dan at VOW- web site (http://www.volunteerordnanceworks.com) HTH, Dan.

March 28, 2002, 10:47
I have Ironwood just ordered, but no experience with their product, I can say from C&R gun experience that boiled linseed oil will bring out more warmth and darken the wood, tung will tend to bring out more grain and darken less, and a light layer of carnuba wax seems to weather proof without getting really shiny. Cut blo or tung with 50% mineral spirits so it soaks deeper. NO substitute for a test board from the local lumber yard.
Nice pics guys , thanks! :cool:

March 28, 2002, 12:44
Dan, I was going to order some stock finish, but WOW! $10.50 for shipping on a $14.95 item? I love ya Dan, but not that much...

March 28, 2002, 20:02
Hey Doubleought, is that a Enfield buttplate on that stock? That thing looks massive!

March 28, 2002, 22:03

It's from an Aussie kit I had. It was an almost perfect fit on the inch Ironwood stock! I only had to remove a little metal from the bottom of the buttplate. Cleaned it up with sand paper and a Scotchbrite pad. It just looks so big because I did a close-up shot with the digital cam. I was trying to show how nice the buttplate fitted and finished. :)

Dan at VOW
March 28, 2002, 22:52
Hey shortround, didn't mean to give you a heart attack! I haven't had a chance to reset the shipping charges yet. Email me about any questions on shipping. Shipping is included on the stock finish, and there is enough to do 4 sets in each bottle. HTH, Dan.

March 29, 2002, 09:26
Apparently, what is sold as "Boiled" linseed oil, isn't. It's actually raw oil with either heavy-metal or petroleum driers added. The November/December 2001 issue of Fine Woodworking dealt specifically with this issue and it may explain why so many of us are having trouble with our gun stock finishes. The article recommended a finish called "Tried & True" which is based on an 1850 formula. The company's web site http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products.htm#Original%20Wood%20Finish has a product called "Original Wood Finish" that appears to be a dead ringer for the traditional boiled linseed oil/wax gunstock finish. HTH. Omar

Brian in MN
March 29, 2002, 10:17
I used some Ace brand oil based wood stain, Colonial Maple Ace #1160548 and a couple coats of true oil. The result is indistinguishable from the original finish on FN made wood.

Bob Bishop
March 30, 2002, 12:30
I read the same Fine Wordworking article and in fact ordered a pint of the Tried and True finish. It did a beautiful job on the MP43 buttstock and pistol grips I was restoring...although I initially used too heavy coats and it took several days between them to dry.

Follow the instructions to use THIN coats and it will dry faster. Also, if you thin the first coat about 50% with mineral spirits it will penetrate deeper (the stuff out of the can is about like honey in consistency).

After I got the depth/beauty desired, I let it dry for a week and then rubbed a finishing coat of turpentine/pure beeswax over it to seal it from external moisture.



March 30, 2002, 16:10
As strange as it sounds,.. FWRA posted some pics a short while ago of a walnut stock that he had finished by hand rubbing with ballistol ,.. simply using the palm of his hand. I wouldn't have believed it, but it looked very good!,.. very much like the military finish that you see on the walnut stocks of 03's and Garands. He says that it dries very well,.. doesn't raise the grain and has no oily residue after it cures a bit.

March 30, 2002, 22:36
I just did a stock set using Min-wax Wipe On Polyurethane, gloss finish. Rubbed it in using new 12 ga. patches until it started to pull. Did 6 coats. 400 wet/dry between coats and 600 before last coat. Came out looking very military, slightly satin finish, very nice. Don't know how it will hold up but poly is usually very tough.