View Full Version : Anyone Tried Brownell's Bake on Laquer Finish
March 25, 2002, 23:01
I was wondering if anyone has tried brownell's bake on laquer finish. I noticed they have a gloss black which might duplicate the black painted finish on the current Imbel kits available from Dan's Etc. :rolleyes:
March 25, 2002, 23:15
It matches the old Enfield lacquer finish on No.1Mk4, etc. Not as durable as the moly/teflon coatings. Easy to use, especially by the quart with an airbrush.
Not sure about the finish on the IMBELS, but perhaps someone who has both an Enfield and an Imbel can comment.
March 25, 2002, 23:39
I use it on Winchester 94 receivers & it's great. I don't how it would look on a military arm. For AR receivers & other alum or metals that can't be blued or parkerized, I use Brownells Aluma Hyde II. There is a build up with this, so don't use where there's a close tolerance. Don't know about Gun Kote or Moly.
March 25, 2002, 23:52
Hey Guys, Been there and done that , the Dupli-color Black semi gloss in Lacquer works just as well or better and produces a smooth satin black went bake at 300 degrees for about hour. Just remember that surface preparation is the key, let cool to harden. I found it to resist typical solvents and oils not to mention you can buy it in flat black if you so desire a less shine or distress look. I my self have apply it too four of my builds. Try it you'll like it....
For the money it goes a long way. Thats my two cents take care , Happy Shooting Jim.....
March 26, 2002, 11:15
signman - does it come in quarts? Where do you get it? Thanks.
Edited for sloppy typing. :(
[ March 26, 2002: Message edited by: milton ]
March 26, 2002, 12:21
I just did a Springfield Armory M6 Scout in Norrell's Moly Resin OD green and it is awesome. That stuff is tough as nails also because I had some trouble getting the trigger pin back in (not due t paint but a design issue) and I used punches, a screwdriver, and a hammer and the Moly Resin still didn't scratch. I missed the pin twice and hit the metal on the stock and it did no damage to the Moly Resin.
The semi-gloss wasn't as "glossy" as I expected. That could be due to the fact that the park on the mags I experimented with was a rougher texture. The matte black Moly Resin looks very good on the rougher finish though. Given the fact that I was airbrushing the Moly on at night with very little light to see by and the fact that the power went out as I was doing this, the parts that I experimented with came out well.
Then there's the various high heat paints at the auto parts store that people have been talking about. I think I'll give them a try next. In all, I would HIGHLY recommend the Norrell's Moly Resin in matte or spray the semi-gloss on a little thicker to give it more shine.
March 26, 2002, 16:10
I have to agree with signman.
I have done a couple of complete fals in Brownell's laquer. They look good, but the finish is not super durable, even over park.
The Duplicolor 500 degree engine enamel is every bit as good as the laquer, probably better for about 1/3 of the cost.
March 26, 2002, 21:28
Hey Guys, Thanks for all the info. I have all the equipment to do a super nice Parkerizing job. But for some reason I like the looks of that black paint. I haven't seen a Imbel restored to original type finish. Anyone with one please send me some pics. Thanks, Ed ;)
March 27, 2002, 01:17
Which bake-on finish would you recommend more, Norrell's Moly Resin or KG Gun-Kote 2400 (not the stuff from Brownell's)? Of those of you that have worked with both, which is easier to work with and which gives the nicest finish in your opinion?
March 27, 2002, 01:54
perdurabo: I just got through a magazine refinish with Norell. It seemed somewhat "different" than GunKote. Can't quite put my finger on it. Did a quick scotchbrite test and it seems at least as durable. I know a lot of folks are going to disagree but using a Paasche air brush I still find GunKote a little easier to apply (atomizes finer? dries almost on contact). I also tried the GunKote 1600 series and the black is blacker but it seems less forgiving if you don't preheat your parts sufficiently.
I really don't think there is enough difference to lose sleep over, either way.
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