View Full Version : Receiver Wrenches
August 06, 2001, 11:03
I was wondering if the receiver wrench sold by DSA is the same as the one sold by Casey? Or, does DSA have their own version?
August 06, 2001, 11:19
The DSA receiver wrench is made by AGI (American Gnsmith Institute) and is OK - I have been using one for over a year now. I liked the price (and still do) - you do have to line the thing with plastic tape to keep from marking your receiver. I've barreled over 7, now, and it shows no wear and, when lined with tape, hasn't marked any of the receivers it was used on.
August 06, 2001, 16:00
A Chevy Sprint will get you from point A to point B. So will a Cadillac Fleetwood. I'd rather be in the Cadillac. Casey Elliot, 972-790-2636.
You can support a stamp-em-out, cookie cutter operation, or you can support a dedicated vendor who invented the FAL receiver wrench from plans given to him by God. I'd rather be in the Cadillac. Casey Elliot, 972-790-2636.
(just kidding, Lord)
August 06, 2001, 16:04
Rod Taylor of TaylorWerkes also makes a phenomenal wrench.
Taylor Werkes: sub-MOA FALs and gargantuan receiver wrenches (http://www.geotec.net/taylorwkrs/index.htm)
August 06, 2001, 16:10
Hey Ted, can you put the wrench into a vice like Elliots?
August 06, 2001, 16:25
You'll have to ask Rod that Q. I've talked a lot w/ Rod, and seen one wrench, but I am not a builder by any means.
It appears that it can be used in the vice, but that long handle begs me to lock-up the barrel, and use the wrench to rotate the receiver about the barrel. Rod builds sub-MOA FALs this way, so he must think the stress issues are not show-stoppers.
August 07, 2001, 07:58
I thought Gunplumber had some for sale also?
August 07, 2001, 09:33
I made my own receiver wrench out of a 1" thick chunk of aluminum. Painted one side with layout fluid and scribed the outline of the face of the reciever on it. Next I milled out a hole the shape of the reciever (could use a drill, file, dremel or whetever to remove the material). Drilled holes on either side for the clamping bolts. Cut it in two on the bottom side. Tapped the holes. Drilled a hole at the top of the wrench and filed it out square for a 1/2" drive torque wrench.
August 21, 2001, 21:30
Anyone know what is up with Casey? I haven't been able to reach him. Left messages and sent emails and nada.
August 21, 2001, 22:52
He is around. I bought a wrench from him in person on Friday and it works perfectly.
August 21, 2001, 22:58
I received an email from him that a family member was in the hospital and he wasn't around much. If you email him, I'm sure he'll answer.
August 22, 2001, 10:30
When you use a receiver wrench, must you keep the bolt carrier in the receiver, or is that only when putting the receiver in a vise?
August 22, 2001, 10:47
The AGI wrench is just torch-cut plate steel. A beautiful torch job, but a torch job just the same. Even a very good torch table operator (I fancied myself one for a while) cannot avoid the serrated texture on the cut. The AGI cuts are crisp, perpendicular to the plane of the steel, but still slightly serrated. In fact, they don't even knock off the super hard scale that is produced from the cutting operation. The plate surfaces still wear the scale from the plate rolling process, too. Unpainted, unrefined. An AGI wrench marked my receiver, with my assistance of course. I didn't use tape.
My Elliot wrench is baby smooth all over. It's been blasted and parked. Doesn't mark receivers, but I used tape with it anyhow.
August 22, 2001, 18:25
You may put my wrench in a vise if you choose, BUT it was designed to be used with a barrel vise. If it is clamped in vise, make sure that the allen screws are VERY tight.
The wrench weighs about 5 lbs, and has a 21" handle for leverage. I would use soft jaws though, or the vise will leave marks on the wrench.
I always clamp the barrel and spin the wrench, although one could perform the opposite. I believe that it is best to use a barrel vise as opposed to using the barrel flats on the barrel. Large amounts of pressure on the shoulder flats usually round edges.
Part of this issue relates to the amount of torque at TDC. FALs are mass produced, therefore, they are designed to be safe/headspaced/timed with minimum/maximum tolerances. This may facilitate large numbers of weapons, but does nothing to enhance individual accuracy.
In other words, more lbs of torque at TDC helps accuracy, in my opinion. This is not possible using the barrel flats for installation.
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