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View Full Version : Give Me the Skinny on AK Receivers


Regal Beagal
January 17, 2006, 09:17
Being new to the AK building arena and now that I have my Polish Underfolder kit, which manufatured receiver for a stamped AK have you built on, what did you like about it, how did it go together, would you recommend the 1mm or the 1.6mm thick receiver? Anything else I may have forgotten just add it to your $.02. How would you rate Ohio Ordinance, Global Trade and Ewbanks receivers? I've read good things about the OOW and the GT but nothing on the EW.

Why I have your attention, I know that the AK can be built with regular shop tools (which I have) but the one thing I don't have is steel blocks to back the rivets with. Where can I find some steel block that won't cost me a fortune? I definitley want all the force to go to the rivets and not the receiver or parts.

Man, am I getting phsyched about this new venture.....

derek huffman, azexarms
January 17, 2006, 11:40
http://www.warrifles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9370

Ewbanks=poop. The trigger holes are clearly in the wrong place. They called me a few months ago, sent me a receiver for free, it wouldn't even fit on my C2 jig to make it into an MG. So I sent it back. They have yet to call me back about it.

D.
AZEX

bykerhd
January 17, 2006, 11:55
I've built two on 1.0 mm Arsenal receivers. Not too bad a job. Things are where they are supposed to be for the mag well and action controls. The receivers are supposed to be fully heat treated. I didn't want to modify the trunnion is why I went with the 1.0 instead of the 1.6 receiver.
The Ohio Ordnance receivers are claimed to have the safety/selector hole out of whack slightly. Requires a bit of fiddling to make work They heat treat the areas where the fire controls mount but not the whole receiver.

Regal Beagal
January 17, 2006, 12:55
Thanks Derek and Bykerhd ! Derek thanks for the great review, it's a great help for us novices. Keep them coming folks!

XHardrock
January 17, 2006, 15:10
The 80% receivers require a few tools and a dremel. For 100%, I have also heard good reviews about Arsenal.
I worked aircraft and had a few bucking bars (chunks of metal), but any machine shop should let you rummage their scrap bin.
Had a problem with the front trunion rivets, and found a horeshoe pin works great.

TheOtherChris
January 20, 2006, 10:47
Originally posted by Regal Beagal
I know that the AK can be built with regular shop tools (which I have) but the one thing I don't have is steel blocks to back the rivets with. Where can I find some steel block that won't cost me a fortune? I definitley want all the force to go to the rivets and not the receiver or parts.

Man, am I getting phsyched about this new venture.....

Welcome to the addiction.

The only AKs I have built have been the bend your own flat variety, and they have been a lot of fun. They also run great.

As for rivets, save yourself a lot of grief and go the bolt cutter squisher route.
IMHO, the 18" HF cutters are just too small. I broke them on the second rivet. I now use the 24" ones that I modified with nothing more than an angle grinder, belt sander and Dremel. They have done several builds without a problem.

One thing is for certain: AKs are a lot less expensive to build than FALs!

EMDII
January 20, 2006, 10:57
I'm picking up an OOW 1.24mm (048") receiver today. I'll post pics and commentary. Once I get a builder, I'll ask for their feedback and insights.
http://www.ohioordnanceworks.com/parts/akm/74.jpg

Here are OOW's marketing bullets:


- U.S. manufactured
- Metal is unfinished (in the white)
- 1080 carbon stamped steel
- Thickness: .048 thousandths (1.24mm)
- Both rails installed (left rail has ejector, main support post rivet rail installed)
- No holes for trunion and buttstock
- Heat treated (Trigger and hammer holes are heat treated, then the whole receiver is drawn down at 600 degrees for 1 hour. The receiver is now heat treated but not brittle. If you heat treat the whole receiver, the minute you quench it you will warp the entire thing.)

mj2evans
January 20, 2006, 11:12
I am currently working on a DCI receiver for a Yugo undefold. After attaching the trigger guard/mag release the predrilled front trunnion holes seem to be in the right place as I test fitted a magazine. The receiver looks great, can't wait to finish the build.

cookhj
January 20, 2006, 12:05
someone over at ARFCOM has a post about using drive screws instead of rivets. pretty cool idea. would save time and money on a build.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=51&t=80577

bykerhd
January 20, 2006, 12:37
Building a "classic" AK EMDII ? Or are you going the Tactical route ?
Type of kit ?

TheOtherChris
January 20, 2006, 12:38
Originally posted by cookhj
someone over at ARFCOM has a post about using drive screws instead of rivets. pretty cool idea. would save time and money on a build.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=51&t=80577

Personally, I wouldn't even consider them for an AK build.
They're designed for very light duty and are not much better than pop rivets.
I would use screws (and I don't like screw builds) before I would those.

YMMV,

EMDII
January 20, 2006, 12:53
Even if they're milspec Grade 8 and rated for both shear and tensile loads?

TheOtherChris
January 20, 2006, 14:17
Originally posted by EMDII
Even if they're milspec Grade 8 and rated for both shear and tensile loads?

Are you talking about threaded machine screws as are being used by some for builds or DRIVE screws (which are kind of like a rivet with sharp flutes at a VERY steep pitch) that are meant to be blind pressed for [semi] permanent attachment?

My main problem with grade 8 screws is strictly because I don't think they're worth the trouble to drill tap, loktite, etc. over using rivets. The other thing I don't like about screws is that they're by definition non-permanent. (I know, that is just semantics, but I am anal about such things.)

Drive screws are, so far as I know, untested for AKs and are being looked at by potential builders as a way to avoid tapping (and broken taps) and to give the appearance of rivets.

owlcreekok
January 20, 2006, 16:11
The other thing I don't like about screws is that they're by definition non-permanent. (I know, that is just semantics, but I am anal about such things.)

:rofl:

A "COSMIC" anti-parallel if there ever was one ! I am the exact same way (anal), 180 degrees opposite. I could rivet if'n I wanted to, and it would be no sweat. As I have said on here before, I have set tens of thousands of rivets in my career (sheet-metal-smith in previous life). No big. I want the dang rifle to come apart when I want it to. Tapping trunnions is no biggy for me either. Nor is making them stay, IMO.

"Drive" screws ? WTF ? Never heard the term. Been around hardware and fasteners all my adult life. It first I thought that someone might be referring to a self tapping screw of some sort. Then I woke up. No way is someone going there !

A grade 3, 5 or 8 machine screw will hold everything an AK action can put on it. Tensile OR shear. LOTS stronger than a rivet. Hell, you are setting the rivet, right ? We know by virtue of that fact rivets are softer than Grade * screws. Again, the test is proven, the rivets will hold all the AK can put on them too, IF, repeat, IF they are set properly. I saw a flex connector on a utility set fan riveted with 1/4" brads come almost all the way off once after less than a year of operation. The rivets were set (by witness of the backup fan beside it, ducted by the same mechanic) without the two pieces of steel fully mated. The vibration of the high velocity air across the flex and it's fasteners (around 4000 feet per minute) work hardened the rivets and they broke.

80% receivers ? I got some right now that are kickin' my tail. I will get them done, hopefully before they rust away. :uhoh: I will be buying a couple of ready rolled ones soon as I have a couple of rifles I want done faster than the rust is advancing on the 80's. :rofl:

TheOtherChris
January 20, 2006, 17:05
Originally posted by owlcreekok


:rofl:

A "COSMIC" anti-parallel if there ever was one ! I am the exact same way (anal), 180 degrees opposite. I could rivet if'n I wanted to, and it would be no sweat. As I have said on here before, I have set tens of thousands of rivets in my career (sheet-metal-smith in previous life). No big. I want the dang rifle to come apart when I want it to. Tapping trunnions is no biggy for me either. Nor is making them stay, IMO.

Funny how each of us has our own little quirks idnit? ;)
I welded my first build, because I didn't want to mess with pulling the barrel or drilling out rivets. I just ground the heads off leaving the stems "proud" of the trunnions and TIG'd the new receiver in place.
VERY wrong, but I was lazy. Does make a nice smooth rifle though. :biggrin:


"Drive" screws ? WTF ? Never heard the term. Been around hardware and fasteners all my adult life. It first I thought that someone might be referring to a self tapping screw of some sort. Then I woke up. No way is someone going there !

owlcreekok
January 20, 2006, 17:19
Funny how each of us has our own little quirks idnit?

Yup. Keeps things from being boring, eh !

I see now what the leetle bastages, "Drive Screws" are. Didn't know they went by that name. Didn't know ANY non-profane names for them either. The only ones of those I ever saw that hadn't already worked loose from their place of installation were those yet in the freakin bag they came in.

TheOtherChris
January 20, 2006, 17:43
Originally posted by owlcreekok
The only ones of those I ever saw that hadn't already worked loose from their place of installation were those yet in the freakin bag they came in.

And on that point we are in perfect harmony:rofl:

EMDII
January 20, 2006, 19:16
I have seen them used in some assembly applications that must be qualified against 0.8 G shocks at certain frequencies. This is not the same as a rifle, but I suspect that an analysis would show they have more than enough shear, tensile, and compressive strength to work in a medium-calibre rifle. These are not aluminium WAC-receivers, they are steel assembly devices designed for this kind of application. I wouldn't use them to hold a space shuttle together, but you might be surprised where these do show up in aerospace.

http://www.purchasepartners.com/New_Folder/Fastener%20Reference%20Guide/Screws/Drive%20Screws/Type%20U.pdf

http://www.elitefastenersinc.com/images/military-3.gif

cookhj
January 24, 2006, 10:10
i've read about them in a few different threads recently on ARFCOM and AKFILES and it seems that there are a few people out there with builds that have a few thousand rounds through them and no problems.

Kahouna
January 24, 2006, 12:09
I've got a kit that I've been thinking about building and i've been following those posts. I might just give it a try since I don't have the rivet capability. I wonder if you can do the trigger guard in them too with a smaller one?

EMDII
January 24, 2006, 12:42
I opine that the TG needs a mushroomed rivet of the conventional style. These screws actually engage the base metal deeply, where the TG just needs to be captured.

owlcreekok
January 24, 2006, 13:09
I've mused over the idea of riveting TG's. Prolly "screw + nut " while I muse some more. Well, actually, I already have. So, I guess I am just musing now.

Great website, Ted, BTW. Got that one bookmarked. Lots of handy dimensional drawing pdf's on there. Too bad, now I am going to be hot to find a collet chuck for my lathe. Then, instead of beating this keyboard and reading dissertations on thermonuclear device effects by armchair physicists, I can make chips and custom fasteners while listening to ZZ Top on the radidio and the Spotted Owls out behind the shed.

:biggrin:

EMDII
January 24, 2006, 15:55
:rofl:

Para Driver
January 24, 2006, 18:49
either way, you'll need a press... pony up for the biggest one you can afford.. it IS MUCHO easier to press the barrel and pin back into the trunion after you put them in the freezer for 24 hours..

1.6mm receiver while sturdier, also require milling the trunions and I think the bolt carrier as well...

Valkyrie0002
January 24, 2006, 19:28
I have some of the last Vulcan receivers from 2 yrs ago. They are actually very good. The builds went together well.

I have some std. Tapco flats and some non trunion hole flats from Weaponeer. I have a bending jig and will bend a few receivers soon.


I did 2 screw builds on AMD63 kits 1 1/2 yrs ago. I chose screws because I did not want to press out the barrel. I did not have a press or tools to rivet. I did have everything except a couple taps to do a screw build.

It was difficult at times to drill out the rivets and tap the trunion, but the builds turned out nice.

I think I will stick with the screw build for all my other kits. I also like the idea of being able to disassemble my rifles.