View Full Version : Painting the lettering

September 24, 2001, 20:04
How is it that one would go about painting ht elettering that you see on so many of the sharp rifles? I can't my 2" sash brush in there.
Really, do just get the smallest craft brush I can find, and don't drink any coffe for a few day before I do it? And what would one use, I have heard of some people using laquer, and they don't sell that at Home Depot either.

September 24, 2001, 20:47
I used Testor's model paints (over a Gunkote finish). Just dabbed it in with a Q-tip, let dry a little, and use a pencil eraser to take off the "whoops" part. There's a lot, but the eraser works like magic! I'm not sure if it would be so easy over park.....

September 24, 2001, 20:58
Did a search, came up with this. http://www.l1a1.com/cgi-bin/forums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002331 , good luck.

September 24, 2001, 21:02
*Posted by FootLongCuban on March 28, 2000
Here’s what I do. The area has to be free from oil and grease first. I brush the spot with a bit of MEK or Paint thinner. Let it dry then clean with a spot of alcohol. Once dry I just use Testors red and white model paint (your choice of color variations). I take a toothpick or tiny brush and just fill in the letters carefully; you want to just go outside the lines so you get complete coverage. I then let it dry for 10 minutes, then carefully wipe off the excess using a paper towel blotted lightly with alcohol. Try and wipe criss-cross so you don’t dig the paint back out; also don’t press too hard. If you screw up just wipe off, let dry and try again. -FLC

*Posted by orca on March 28, 2000
Here is a copy of a post I received a few months ago:
Hey Orca, went to the hobby shop in search of some tough paint. What I came up with is a polyurethane made by "Formula U", it is supposed to be impervious to fuel among other things. After some practice and a little trial and error I found I got the best results by using my finger to wipe the excess off, anything else would drag too much paint out of the recesses. I would paint it in carefully with a small detail brush and then wipe of the excess, go in with another fine tipped brush with just thinner in it and alternate between wiping it down with my finger and washing the excess off with the thinner. After it was to my satisfaction I put the small parts and pieces in the toaster oven at 300 degrees for an hour or two. When it was done cooking, the paint was impervious to anything short of a stainless steel bristle brush and even then it only scratched the surface. Powder solvent wouldn't budge it and the brake spray cleaner just cleaned it up and made it nice and bright. After practicing on my R1 kit all day I'm going to do my StG's.
This sounds like a good approach to me. -Orca

IIRC Gunplumber describes basically the same techniques in his workbook, which isn't with me at the moment. Testors is good stuff and cheap. I think baking at 300 degrees is a little too hot; 200 for an hour or two does the job just fine. Of course the painted parts I'm baking are bare with any plastic components previously removed.