View Full Version : Calling All Wizards

March 23, 2002, 13:30
I had a terrible day at the range!
#1- My Izzy HB w/nearly all new parts on an Imbel [which I was going to sell after todays function test] Double Taps every other time I pull the trigger.
#2 and it has Brass tracks on both edges of the under side of the bolt.
#3- My New Argi Barrel w/ a New tapco lower and a DSA Type 2 upper also with all new parts, also has the bras tracks under the bolt.
#4 This one now goes through a complete cycle but does not cock.
I am bewildered!
Although there are a few things that I do know.
A- I switched from Port ammo to Hert.
B- I installed the new replacement Hammers from Harold Shinn [FSE] and polished the drum section before the sear lock edge. This was down with 600 grit and removed nearly no metal.
Any Suggestions?

March 23, 2002, 15:11
gw11 ;
Let me see if I can help..
#1.. Problem may be the back edge of the sear/trigger enguagement..A little smoothing will ease the trigger reset and allow the sear to go forward and enguage the hammer.
Sticky trigger return spring ??
#2 Normal.. Brass will always smear a transfer onto steel when rubbed together.
Smoothing the sharp edges on the bottom of bolt will help feeding over the case in the mag and will limit the gouging of brass, but will not stop the brass transfer marks.
#3 See #2
#4 See #1 and latter of B and check semi only safety selection ( doubtfull )
A should be of no concern
B Not a problem, unless you have rounded the enguagement surfaces on the hammer or the sear face.

Maybe something in here that can help you track it down..Just my best guess as to a starting point..

[ March 23, 2002: Message edited by: Rich@CGW ]

March 23, 2002, 15:27
Thanks Rich
I just swapped the triggers and the Izzy releases every time, when I hold the trigger down and cock then release. so I will try another sear spring and I just checked the sear, finish, and the machining is rough.
The polishing I did on the drum round surface on the trigger shows no rounding at all at the step.
I have to keep my cool here because if I start throwing this thing accross the room I might wreck the Beautiful Finish You put on it. Thanks Rich.

March 23, 2002, 16:00
:eek: Dont do that ;)
To simulate a live action, With the rifle fully assembled, Hold the trigger down and rack the bolt, as you would if chargeing a live round.. If the trigger still resets, then your definately good to go.

March 23, 2002, 16:25
First I changed the sear spring and then I just cleaned up 600grit, all the sear surfaces and I found that the end of the sear was not Square to the sides- it is now and the izzy trigger seems to funtion correctly.

Next I'll play with the other gun. It probably has close to the same problem.

I have one more question!
I just hand cycled the Izzy bolt over a few non primered rounds, And The Bolt Extractor hits the side of the Imbel Rails as it is opening over the round at the end of the 45degree angle cut at the ejection port[ this makes resistance]or stoppage.
I checked the DSA receiver and this 45 degree cut goes all the way forward, so the extractor never gets close to it.There are occasional stoppage at this point. The Head space is correct.
Should I cut this material out of the Imbel?

March 23, 2002, 20:33
Regarding the extractor releif..

You have some easy options here..
1) smooth/sand the underside and inside edges of the flat feed ramps in the receiver. This will greatly enhance cartridge feeding and free up some extra power when chambering.
2) file the side of the bolt extractor side to clear the receiver. and touch up with cold blue.
3) Carefully releive the inside of the receiver at the front of the ejection port with a flat file.

Before filing anything, Do option #1 and oil up the receiver rails and carrier rails to see if will lap itself into shape.. by hand cycling some rounds through it. A good dose of lube ( oil, not grease ) during break in, can solve a bunch of these types of problems on start up.. Basicly, put oil on every metal to metal contact surface.. This will allow your parts to move freely and take the most natural and fluid corse to determine it`s own ware in life without gauling the metal surface.

If the bolt is stripping cartridges correctly and smoothly, the extractor should not extend past the outside edge of the carrier until it meats the extractor ramp on the chamber face. If your carrier by itself, does not bind when closed or show serious finish ware at the right front edge , then the receiver extractor area or extractor does not need to be filed. If all else fails, see options #2

Hate it when I don`t have the problem directly in front of me. :o

March 23, 2002, 20:46
Thanks again Rich.
As wild as it sounds. I just finished doing everything you just said. And I believe I'm ready to pop some more holes.
Thanks for your help Rich.