Basic Disassembly Questions

[kyle]

I'm trying to disasembly my G-1 kit for cleaning. Couple of basic questions...

1. What's the trick for removing the gas tube from the gas block? I've backed off the regulator and the receiver end is loose.

2. I want to strip down the lower receiver. I've popped out the hammer spring but I haven't got any of the other pins to pop out. Is there a certain order to follow and is do you have to hit these things pretty hard with a punch and hammer to get them out? Thanks!

[Harlan at FAC]

Kyle:

There is a small pin that is holding in the gas tube. The gas tube threads into the gas block. Right under where the tube threads into the block, look for a small pin hole. Once found, you can use a pin punch to move the pin out of the hole. Once the pin is out, you can unthread the tube.

For taking out the lower receiver fire control parts, start by taking out the hammer return spring/strut parts. Then rotate the selector lever to a 12 o'clock position. Pull out the selector. Look for a thin piece lying against the inner right side of the lower. You can move the thin lock plate up and forward. Once you have removed the lock plate, you can easily push out the pins and remove the hammer, sear, and trigger.

[fenian15]

just to add to what Harlan said, DO NOT try to unscrew the gas tube before you pop that little pin out!!!

[kyle]

Thanks Harlan...

Once I realized I had to push the gas tube pin out, it took all of 2 seconds!

Got all the fire control parts out also. No Problems. Thanks for the help!

[bykerhd]

You will need a buttstock tool of some sort to safely remove the long,very wiggily recoil springs safely. Remove the screw that attaches the lower receiver to the stock and the butt stock should come loose.(sometimes they stick)
You will see a small screw head on the back of the lower receiver. Remove it. It is the retaining pin for the locking lever. Wiggle the locking lever out. The locking pin for the lower will go forward under spring pressure. Don't worry. Drive out the retainer pin for the locking pin/plunger/spring and remove them. Reassemble the pin/plunger spring first. Drive the retainer pin back in. The tricky part comes now. Insert the locking lever in till it stops,push the locking pin back in to the lower until you can push the locking lever all the way in. It has to mate in a recess in the locking pin. Reinstall that threaded pin until the top is flush.
Works for me.

[kyle]

Got it out with no problems. Thanks for the help!

[Derby FALs]

Make a slave pin for the hammer & sear. It will make assembly lots easier. I meke mine from a 16 penny nail. Make it short enough that the hammer and sear will drop into the lower.

[Radio]

HOW TO COMPLETELY STRIP YOUR METRIC LOWER

Fire Control Parts: Using your other hand to catch the hammer, pull the trigger so the hammer is in the "fired" position. Use any pry tool, plastic is better to avoid marking the lip of the lower, to pry up the hammer return spring/spring tube, pry from the rear. (It's also smart to have a piece of leather or thick cardboard against the recoil plate of the lower to protect it from getting thwacked under spring pressure.) Remove the spring assembly (the tube, spring and a long plunger that fits into the hammer). Rotate the selector up to 12:00 and pull it straight out of the lower. Look inside the lower; on the right, there's a thin metal shim with a hole where the selector just was ("locking plate"). To remove it, rotate it up and forward, then pull it towards the rear, away from the hammer pin. Now push the hammer pin to the right of the lower (thumb pressure should usually be enough); lift the hammer from the lower. Do the same with the trigger/sear pin; the sear is under light spring pressure and will move towards the front when the pin is removed. (A spring and plunger fits between pockets in both the trigger and sear.) You can now remove the trigger forward away from the trigger return spring, then up and out of the lower.

Using a screwdriver or dedicated tool, remove the nut inside the pistol grip and slide the grip off the stud; you can now remove the triggerguard by rotating it down and also gain access to the trigger return spring and plunger for removal. (The return spring is about the same size as the sear spring but thicker/stiffer.)

Buttstock: Aft of the grip stud, there's a tab off the lower that extends rearward into the stock; remove the screw. (Forget this screw and you'll drive yourself crazy trying to figure out why the stock won't come off.) Remove the buttpad. (There's a washer under the screw that will probably stay in the pad.) NOW, CAUTION. You next want to remove the recoil spring tube nut and washer beneath the buttpad screw; this retains the recoil spring assembly and secures the stock. Use a dedicated stock removal tool, or at least put a cleaning rod down through the spring as you carefully remove the nut with a screwdriver, otherwise you're likely to launch some parts into outer space and/or put out an eye. The nut should turn about 14 times before it's free. Remove the recoil spring and plunger (it'll be messy). Now you can tug and swear and eventually pull off the stock. (Or get the same effect as when you pick up an empty carton of milk you thought was full.)

The recoil spring tube is supposed to remain attached to the lower; in case IT screwed out of the lower instead of the NUT out of the recoil spring tube, use penetrating oil or apply heat to loosen. Use a strap wrench on the tube if you have one, otherwise wrap a leather belt around the tube and cinch down with a pair of pliers under the tube, not on it, otherwise you'll crush the tube. Use some Locktite when reinstalling the tube and forget it. (The cutout should face down, or "six o'clock.")

Rear Sight: To remove the rear sight assembly, remove the adjustment screws from both sides, then whack the unit out to either side with a brass drift or wooden dowel. There may be a "Z" spring under the sight base. To further disassemble the sight, push down on the little pin at the front and remove, then squeeze the sight button and slide the sight forward off the base. Release spring pressure to remove the button and spring out of the sight body.

Latch Assembly: Under the recoil spring tube you'll find a tiny screw/pin. Use your smallest screwdriver to remove it. Use a thumb to push in on the locking latch inside the lower while removing the latch lever. The lever might virtually drop out if you tilt the lower on its left side, or get it started by pushing in from the right before pulling it out to the left. Release spring tension. Now you'll be able to knock out the locking latch retaining pin (you can use the little screw/pin to push it out). The locking latch with spring and plunger can now drop out the back of the lower. You've done it!

Notes On Reassembly: (1)- If the rear sight binds when trying to slide into the lower, check that the little pin at the front is up all the way and not sticking slightly down, or out, of the sight. Don't forget your "Z" spring if you have one, some rifles don't. (2)- First drop in the locking latch with spring and plunger (bevel is up, sharp cut down), then push in the latch retaining pin. Use a thumb to compress the latch spring, then drop in the lever. Screw in the lever retaining screw/pin. (3)- Stock reinstallation is where that dedicated tool really shines. Sure is worth the ten bucks at TAPCO. Don't forget the screw on the bottom, get it in BEFORE you put on the pistol grip. (4)- Install the trigger return spring and plunger before you put in the trigger. Shoot, just leave that pistol grip off until the last. (5)- It's been said that you need three hands to reassemble the trigger/sear, because spring pressure wants to push the sear forward and out of alignment with the trigger pin hole. It's taken a little bit of practice but I've managed to do it many dozens of times with only two hands! You can too. Or wimp out and use a piece of appropriate-size nail as a slave pin. (Wimp.) (6)- If you mix up the similar-sized sear spring and trigger return spring, "sear smaller trigger bigger." (7)- As you hook the pin locking plate forward over the hammer pin then rotate it down into the lower, it may not rotate far enough to line up with the corresponding hole in the lower. I've found that rotating the hammer up and down a few times often helps to "work" the plate into position so that you can drop in the selector.

Hope this has been useful.

--Radio

[Derby FALs]

(Wimp) on this cathead, Radio,MUHAHAHA...

[fastprofessor]

I found this nice set of disassembly instruction for a lower posted many years ago by radio. Its worth a bump for those that need it (like me :wink: )

[W.E.G.]

See
http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=142918

[GreyRider845]

First I tried to remove (ie unscrew, pull, twist, swear) the gas tube from the gas block of my L1A1 and THEN I read the post saying DO NOT UNSCREW UNTIL THE PIN IS OUT. OK, so now I have bent my Craftsman punch and it is not moving. Oh the punch moved, looks like a curly fry. Anybody have any ideas. I have striped it down for a good cleaning before Duracoating the beast and may just do it right over the gas tube. :eek:

[tac-40]

The gas regulator (big ring looking thing behind the front sight) must come off first. It holds the pin in place and keeps it from falling out. Once the regulator is loose and hanging on the gas tube, then the pin may be punched out. Some gas systems are soldered in. The gas tube pin may not be able to be punched out or the gas tube removed. The easiest way to determine this is to wiggle the gas tube. If you have movement then you do not have a soldered system. If it appears to be soldered in, reevaluate why you want to take it apart.

[msuitepyon]

Regarding the gas tube pin: mine was stuck inside the hole somehow; it didn't appear soldered, but it was stuck. I managed to bend a punch trying to whack the thing out with a BFH. I took a Dremel and a small, round deburring tool and zapped the end of the pin for a few seconds. After that, the pin punched right out (after I had straightened my punch, of course).

[GreyRider845]

Thanks for your assist (Tac-40 and msuitepyon). I have the Gas Regulator off and pushed out of the way. No evidence of solder but it may well be a peened over pin. REALLY peened over. I have re-evalulated and have just Duracoated sparingly in the area of the gas tube at the regulator end. After a 20 minute flash off I can still spin the tube a little. Some mysteries are best left as that. By the by - the "Colt Gray" Duracoat on the metal parts looks Goooooood so far. Going with "H&K Semi-gloss Black" on the pebble grain furniture. It's beat up and it looks like someone scratched off the unit number or whatever on the butt stock. Nothing to lose I guess.