View Full Version : ??? for the knife makers here...
November 29, 2005, 17:00
The wife and I can NEVER find our kitchen paring knives. Even cheap ones that won't hold an edge get dissappeared.
I have access to volumes of heavy, recipro saw blades; from 8 to 12 inches long.
Waddya think of the idea of using them to make cutlery for the kitchen. No need for high-tensile, hammer forged, super-duper steel here, just something that will take an edge. I *have* done this in the field to one, for use as an insulation knife. Didn't hold an edge well; but I was cutting glass ya know;)
Figger'd to grind some to shape and mate to some walnut felled in the yard last year, ala' "Old Hickory" w/some brtass rivits.
Grind off saw teeth, grind to profile and blade section, then harden/temper?
If I get good at it, it *might* just catch on as a side line.
SO what say you...do-able, material wise?
Or will I be wasting my time w/it?
November 29, 2005, 22:14
I have a bunch of knives ground from old 1/8" thick mechanical hack saw blades that hold a great edge.
Dont get them too hot when you grind them, keep a bucket of water within reach to keep cooling them off, and you wont even have to mess with rehardening them afterwards.
November 29, 2005, 22:40
Industrial band saw blades make excellent knives, well suited for what you are wanting.
Not sure about reciprocal blades though...most of those are of fairly cheap steel, but what the hell...give it a whirl...you may end up with something worthwhile...if not all you lost was a little time playing around the shop...not too shabby overall, eh?
November 30, 2005, 02:57
Reciprocal blade's make great knive's. I've not used them for kitchen but, I'm sure they'd be nice. Holds a good, tuff edge. Just don't heat it up excessively when you grind. The steel on most is too hard to drill (for rivets, screws. etc..) after anealing with a torch.
BTW, I'd sure like to get my hands on some more if you want to bother. Trade's maybe?
November 30, 2005, 10:01
The blades I have tested , most seem to be M2 steel, a few bi-metal , and the fewest somthing like 1075-1090 steel. I think it may make a pretty service able knife. I wouldn't heat treat it thought M2 can be a funny steel to work with if you haven't before. I would just grind to shape and keep it cool as to not effect the temper . I use alot of those blades in damascus forging. I like to layer the saw blades with layers of L6 and sometimes add layers of 1060 if I have any at the time for large bowies and short swords.
November 30, 2005, 10:35
I agree with the others...easiest to keep cool while working and just anneal the tang to drill rivet holes.
December 22, 2005, 19:26
The best way to grind them is with one of those old timey ax grinders - you know the big ones that are sometimes pedal powered or treadle powered. Use lots of water and you will never get it to hot. If you are dry grind them, once the metal starts to turn blue, you have got it to hot. I have done okay dry grinding with one of the 1" belt grinders. move fast and dip in water with every stroke across the belt. You might have a tough time drilling the holes for the handle scales. You can use a carbide drill with everything clamped down nice and tight (carbide drills break easily) or your dremel with a carbide or diamond burr.
December 23, 2005, 17:12
Make paring knives for fun and practice. Definitely not to save $$. Not to dissuade you, by all means, grind, shape, rivit. It's a great way to spend some time.
If cheap function is the primary objective; this brand of professional cutlery is excellent and cheap. Here is a representative:
$3.00 for NSF professional cutlery. I'm not sure it could get any cheaper. I believe this brand is made in Brazil.
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